Hiking Capri: From Marina Grande to the top of Mt. Solora

Our Italian hiking trip to Capri found us staying on the southern side of the Island at Marina Piccola.  Although there are many fine hotels in the town of Capri, which sits astride the middle of the Isle de  Capri, we chose to stay at the Hotel Ambassador Weber, mainly because it was right on the sea, which I prefer and because it was reasonably priced.  Our window did indeed look over the sea, the beach below, to our left the Faraglioni and to our right the cliffs rising up to Mt. Solora.

The view from the Ambassador Weber

The staff at the hotel were very friendly and always tried to help, even pointing out trails along the map of Capri that they provided, however, when we told them that we wanted to walk up  La Scala Fenicia, the concierge looked at us with dismay and exclaimed, “Oh no, it is very tiresome. You do not wish to do this!”   We persuaded him that we did indeed want to go see the staircase, but we did not tell him that we intended to go all the way to the top of  Mt. Solora, so he directed us to the other side of the Isle de Capri to Marina Grande, where the staircase begins a few feet above sea level.

To get to Marina Grande from Marina Piccola, we walked up a brick pathway to Capri and then took the funicular railway, an inclined railway running between Capri ad Marina Grande.  If you go to the Isle de Capri, your trip is not complete without riding it.  From the Funicular we walked past the beach and docks up the road to the west of

Boats at Marina Grande

the fishing boats, then turned south with the street until we came to a small sign near the Church of St. Constanza marking the bottom of  La Scala Fenicia.   The staircase has approxiamtely 900 steps cut into the granite from the port to the town of Anacapri.  For centuries, this staircase was the only way to get from the port to Anacapri.  Although the name implies that the steps were cut by the Phonecians, they are likely to have been hewn by the Greek settlers of the island instead.

The climb takes you past the residences, school, and olive gardens and fields. As you look back down the steps, the fishing boats in the marina grow increasingly smaller and the climb becomes steeper and steeper.  You look up to see where the staircase may come out and wonder if you can get there.  Eventually the trail crosses the modern road to AnaCapri, and as you walk from beneath the roadway people look at you as though you were insane. It is probably the fact that  your mouth is hanging open gasping for air.   Above the road the steps continue, and the panorama below you grows ever larger until you come to Villa San Michelle, built by Axel Munthe and now a museum.  There, you find yourself on a street passing little shops and leading into Anacapri.

La Scala Fenicia above the road  

We walked through the town and found our way to the Church of St. Michele.  The floor of the church is a hand painted tile depicting the explusion of Adam and Eve from the Garden of Eden.  Walkways around the floor preserve its beauty and  allow you to see it up close, but you won’t appreciate it until you climb the staircase and look down from the galleries above.   We returned to the center of town and debated taking the chair lift to the top of Mt. Solora.  However, we decided to walk instead, so we cut across the village to the east of the cable line and soon picked up the trail.  It was a moderate hike through a pine thicket so that you only saw the cable cars passing overhead occassionally.

The cable Cars to Mt. Solora

After about an hour, we had passed the spur leading down to the  Hermitage of Cetrella and were making our way to the summit of Mt. Solora.  As with most of the island, here you find the ruins of by gone battlements and outbuildings, in a setting so picturesque as to defy imagination.  Looking down to the east we can see the Faraglioni east and south

Faraglioni from atop Mt. Solora

of Marina Picolla.  Jutting out at the far eastern point of the island is Villa Jovis, with Capri and Anacapri on either side of the island. The sea below is a multi-color pallet

Anacapri from atop Mt. Solora

and you wish not to leave, but the small cafe is closing and it is clear that they want everyone to leave.  The few tourists, besides ourselves, and the cafe staff board the cable cars and head down while we return to the path and hike our way down to AnaCapri, where we catch the bus back to Marina Picolla.  It was a great day.

Hiking the Isle de Capri

Seer had always talked about going to Capri, but neither of us are shoppers. We checked the island off the coast of Italy out and decided it would be a fabulous place to spend a few days hiking. No backpacks or camping, instead we would find a hotel and explore the island on foot. At the east end of the Island is the Villa Jovis, ruins of an ancient Roman party palace. Rising more than 2000 feet in the center of the island is Mt. Solara. We figured we could stay in between and easily hike to both.We booked airline tickets using frequent flyer miles so the story of getting there is where we’ll start.

We had a layover in Philadephia before the alnight flight to Milan. I know Capri is off the coast from Naples. We had to fly from Milan to Naples on a AirOne, a regional airline. If you ever go to Milan, follow the herd getting off the airplane. We were supposed to pick up our boarding passes for AirOne in the airport. Getting off the plane the signs said Baggage Claim and connecting gates. We only had carryon items so we didn’t need baggage claim. Granted, the hallway to baggage claim was lit and the hallway to connecting gates was dark, but there were a couple of uniformed guards by the access, so as everyone else headed toward baggage claim, we walked over to the guards and explained that we needed to get our tickets at AirOne. He didn’t know what  we were talking about, but after looking over the itenerary in my hand, he let us through a turnstile to a hallway and stairway that lead to a large waiting area adjacent the duty free shop. Spotting the information desk, we confidently asked for directions. The maid who was cleaning up told me the staff would arrive in half an hour, so we could take a seat. When, the next attendant arrived, She looked at us as if we had extra heads and informed us, she did not know of any AirOne, but we could ask the ticket agents at the kioks at the gates. Note that we had not gone through customs, had not shown our passports to any one and were wandering around an Italian airport with no clue as to where to get our tickets for the next flight.

Goneguru’s Travel and Recreation Blog

I’m the Traveler at Goneguru.com. My wife is the Seer.  Together and separately we have had the great good fortune to have hiked, biked, run, traveled and enjoyed such places and things as: backpacking in the Grand Canyon, the White Mountains, Cumberland Island; hiking along the Appalachian Trail, along the Highline in Glacier National Park, to the top of Mount LeConte in Tennessee, and along the coast from Villa Jovis to Marina Piccolo on the Isle of Capri. One or both of us have traveled to Rome, Venice, Florence, Gibraltar, Madrid the Coast of Spain, Costa Rica, the Riviera Maya, San Diego to Maine, and Alaska to St. Thomas.  We’ve swam with Pirranha’s, snorkeled on Caribbean reefs, and ridden our bicycles from border to border.  We’ve done tri-athlons, du-athalons, half-marathons and the Peachtree Road Race.  All of this requires a great appreciation and love of food and travel and most of all meeting people. We intend to recreate our travels for our readers, to share our experiences from the past and future, and hopefully meet up with you along the way.